Thursday, October 15, 2015

Vegas, baby! -- Sept. 1 through 3, 2015



My mom treated us to a couple of nights with her in Vegas, in a very swank hotel room on the 61st floor of the Wynn Encore. We had a view over the pools and down the strip, with the Palazzo and Treasure Island’s famous ship easily in view. It was especially fabulous at night, all lights and energy.

The bathroom. Oh my god. Remember for a moment that we’ve had two months of public restrooms, fee showers, and pit toilets. Now imagine our reaction when we walked into the room’s spotless luxury bathroom with twin sinks, a big tub, and a fancy glass-enclosed shower with two shower heads. Yeah. Bliss! Showers were our first priority upon arrival.

The Wynn hotels… The décor is deliberately mod. Steve Wynn hung with the rat pack and plays that up big in the hotel. Case in point: One of the restaurants is Sinatra’s. It’s all reds and purples, with big butterflies and lotus flowers. I can’t say it was really to my taste, but it certainly made an impression.

The pools are beautiful. We spent a big chunk of our second day hanging out by the main Encore pool, lucking into some lounges in the shade and taking frequent dips to keep cool in the 100+ heat. Female waitstaff in abbreviated little red dresses wander the pool deck, taking orders for $16+ drinks, and male lifeguards ensure no one uses the in-pool lily-pad lounges without paying for them. One of the lifeguards also had the onerous duty of telling an attractive young woman she couldn’t be topless in the main pool (they offer a “European-style” pool nearby where that’s allowed).

Between the two Wynn hotels—which are connected by a long shopping esplanade—there are about 20 restaurants, I think. We wandered around a lot, looking at menus and trying to balance budget with experience. We settled on a two-meal-a-day, brunch-and-dinner approach that helped the budgeting a little (but don’t go to the Wynn if you’re looking for cheap food) and ended up having some really excellent meals.

Dinner number 1 was at La Cave, where we sat at a table on the balcony enjoying the gusts of air conditioning from the open dining room behind us. The three of us shared four tapas-style offerings: a yummy salad, French onion soup, grilled scallops on little polenta cakes, and a mushroom and flank steak flatbread pizza. It was extremely delicious and probably my favorite meal of the trip.

Our other big meal, at Allegro, was exceptional too. We shared a perfectly prepared calamari and jalapeño appetizer that was to die for and then tried to find room for our mains. Frank had clam fettuccini, Mom had a really good pasta dish that I can’t remember the details of, and I had a rigatoni and meatballs dish. Good stuff! While we were there, some VIPs arrived, and it was pretty fascinating to watch the staff scramble to accommodate them. The chefs came out of the kitchen to greet them, the bussers broke into nervous sweats, and the manager himself served their wine (although he really should have left that to the experts).

Our breakfasts were also really good. Frank had eggs Benedict twice because it was done so well. I did a Grand Slam-style breakfast one day, complete with the best pancake I’ve had in years, and a tasty mushroom omelette the next. Mom had eggs the first day and pecan monkey bread (yes, really, and it was so good) the next.

In other words, we ate like kings.

About the casinos I can’t say much, not being knowledgeable about these things, but they seemed to have everything casinos are supposed to have. What I do know is that my mom has a magic touch. She can walk up to a slot machine and get it to give her money. It’s the darnedest thing. I wish I had inherited the ability , but alas no. I joked that she won every dollar I put into the slots. I was glad to help. :-)

Aside from pool and casino and food time, our main entertainment was walking around looking at stuff. The culture in Vegas, and especially in an upscale hotel like that, is pretty foreign to me, and overall the lights and the noise and the crowds and the cigarette smoke were overstimulating. But it was fascinating. We walked far enough one day to the see the Grand Canal at the Venetian, with its sky-painted and backlit dome ceiling and singing gondoliers. Fun!

On our last day, we retrieved the van and trailer from the limo lot where they’d had us park (there not being many limos in it midweek) and took a little driving tour of the strip. I have done that much before—we visited Vegas when the girls were small and spent a couple of days riding rollercoasters and winning stuffed animals at Circus Circus—and was happy to do it again. Vegas is a fantasyland. Where else can you see a pirate ship, the Eiffel Tower, New York City, the Sphynx and a pyramid all within about ten minutes?

Then we dropped Mom at the airport and got ourselves back on the road. By nightfall, we were in Bryce Canyon. Talk about culture shock!

P.S. to Mom – Thanks for a lovely vacation from our vacation! I love you.